How fair is our coffee?

Across the world, coffee chains sport Fair Trade logos…not so in India. Many chains are going it alone…here’s why...........Mini Ribeiro

Hundreds of thousands of Indians drink at least one cup of it, every day. But there's more to the coffee story, than just a pick-me-up brew. After the world coffee crisis of 2001-02, coffee farmers have remained vulnerable to the volatile international market and its fluctuating prices. This insecurity has given rise to a growing trend of coffee chains selling Fair Trade Coffee, which ensures that farmers get their due from every cup of coffee sold. Yet Indian coffee chains sport no signs that they follow Fair Trade regulations. This, however, does not mean that coffee chains like Barista, Café Coffee Day and Costa India are not conscious about Fair Trade practices.

According to Lucas Caldiera, treasurer, IFAT and vice-president, Fair Trade Forum-India: "Fair Trade stands for a development model-supply chain that works to extend the fruits of trade to farmers and artisans in the unorganised sector. Fair Trade organisations are only those who are certified by either IFAT (International Fair Trade Association, The Netherlands) and its continental, national bodies, or FLO (Fair Trade Labelling Organisation). Fair Trade Coffee is not yet available in India. Worldwide coffee is certified by FLO, but in India this has not happened as yet. FLO certifies a limited range of products. It is a product specific certification."

Barista sources its beans from Fresh & Honest Café Ltd. VV Balaraman, general manager, Marketing, Fresh & Honest Café Ltd, says, "The Fair Trade Coffee concept is yet to be implemented in India. However, for the requirement of coffee beans to both FHCL and Barista, we buy coffee from small growers and coffee cooperatives at the prevailing market price in India for the prevailing quality.  It, in a way, ensures fair prices to coffee farmers and therefore they are able to produce sustainable coffee."

IFAT and its continental and national bodies certify organisations whose present products ranges from handicrafts, food, beverages, flower, and cotton, to coffee, tea, etc. It is an organisational certification. IFAT is now working on an integrated certification system called SFTMS (Sustainable Fair Trade Management System), which will be launched soon.

"The concept behind a certification programme is to ensure that growers or producers receive a fair share of the profits from roasters and marketeers. Cafe Coffee Day is a coffee grower. We serve the coffee we grow at our close-to-10,000-acres of coffee estates. Our estates are Utz Kapeh certified, which means we follow responsible coffee growing policies. The Utz Kapeh certification programme is widely accepted across the world," says Bidisha Nagaraj, president, Marketing, Café Coffee Day.

Paul Robinson, country head, Costa Coffee India, states, "At Costa, we believe that there isn't a one-size-fits-all solution to ethical trading.  The coffee production and supply market is vast and complex and it's important that at each stage, the best approach is taken to have the biggest positive impact on both the environment and producers alike."

He adds, "Costa was the first UK coffee shop to sell Fairtrade coffee — a product that is still available on request in Costa stores to this day.  Next month Costa will reformulate its main blend of coffee, Mocha Italia, so that its Rainforest Alliance-certified, but the same great quality and taste.  The Rainforest Alliance helps to support both environmental concerns as well as producers, ensuring that working conditions and wages are at an acceptable level — in short, it's a more rounded approach to what it means to be ethical and will be automatically given to every customer.  In India, Costa has taken an even more direct approach — Costa now buys and roasts its coffee in Southern India.  We can invest in the country, reduce our carbon footprint, as well as get closer to our producers and understand the working conditions of the workers."

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