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Vermiculture Worm Compost
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Composting with Worms
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Let worms eat your organic waste! They will happily turn it into some of the
best fertilizer on earth - worm compost, otherwise known as worm castings or
vermicompost. This is a fascinating, fun, and easy way to recycle your organic
kitchen wastes. Worm composting, or vermiculture, requires very little work,
produces no offensive odors, and helps plants thrive. Only a few things are
needed to make good worm compost: a bin, bedding, worms, and worm food. By
following the steps listed below, you will learn to make, take care of, and use
your own worm compost.
Your bin needs to be only 8"-16" deep, since compost worms are
surface feeders. You can build your own bin, use a washtub, a dish pan, a used
shipping crate, or a commercially available worm bin. Just be sure your bin has
a lid to keep out flies and rodents, and holes in the bottom a quarter inch or
smaller, for ventilation and drainage. The rule of thumb for bin size is two
square feet of surface area per person, or one square foot of surface area per
pound of food waste per week. Because worms like moderate temperatures, place
your bin in a shady location where it will not freeze or overheat. Here are some
good choices: kitchen corner, garage, basement, patio, outside back door,
laundry room.
How to build your own worm composter.
Bedding Materials.
Black and white newspaper is the most readily available and easy-to-use bedding
material. Tear it into strips about one inch wide and moisten so it is as damp
as a wrung-out sponge. Cow or horse manure can be used to lighten bedding and
absorb excess moisture. A handful or two of soil, ground limestone, or
well-crushed eggshells every few months are good for providing grit and calcium.
Fill your bin with moistened bedding, toss in a few handfuls of soil, and you
are ready to add the worms and food. Over time, the bedding and food are eaten
by the worms and turned into dark worm compost.
Worms.
The best kind of worms for composting are "red worms," or "red
wigglers." They are often found in old compost piles, but are different
from the earthworms you would normally find in the ground. These worms have a
big appetite, reproduce quickly, and thrive in confinement. They can eat more
than their own weight in food every day! When purchasing red worms, one pound is
all you need to get started.
Feeding Your Worms.
Worms like to eat many of the same things we eat, only they aren’t so picky.
Stale bread, apple cores, orange peels, lettuce trimmings, coffee grounds, and
non-greasy leftovers are just some of the food worms love that we usually
discard. Here are some basic "do’s" and "don’ts." Do
compost: vegetable scraps, fruit peelings, bread and grains, tea bags,
non-greasy leftovers, coffee grounds and filters, well-crushed eggshells. Do not
compost: meat, bones, fats, dairy products, rubber bands, twigs and branches,
dog and cat feces, greasy foods. Begin feeding your worms only a little at a
time. As they multiply, you can add larger quantities of food wastes. Bury the
waste into the bedding regularly, rotating around the bin as you go. When you
return to the first spot, most of the food you buried there should have been
eaten. If not, don’t worry. Just feed the worms less for a while.
Harvesting Your Worm Compost.
After you have been feeding your worms for three to six months, you may notice
the bedding has been eaten, and you can begin harvesting the brown, crumbly worm
compost. Harvesting the compost and adding fresh bedding at least twice a year
is necessary to keep your worms healthy.
Here are a few simple methods for collecting your finished worm compost.
Method 1. Move the contents of your worm bin to one side, place fresh
bedding in the empty space and bury your food wastes there for a month or so.
Harvest the other side after the worms have migrated to the new food and
bedding.
Method 2. Remove one-third to one-half of the contents of your bin,
worms and all, and add the worm compost to your garden soil. Add fresh bedding
and food to your bin.
Method 3. Spread a sheet of plastic out under a bright light or in the
sun. Dump the contents of the worm box into a number of piles on the sheet. The
worms will crawl away from the light into the center of each pile and you can
brush away the worm compost on the outside by hand. Soon you will have wriggling
piles of worms surrounded by donut-shaped piles of worm compost.
Using Your Worm Compost.
Worm compost is more concentrated than most other composts because worms are so
good at digesting food wastes and breaking them down in their digestive tracts
into simple plant nutrients. Use it sparingly for best results.
- How to mulch and amend soil
- How to use worm compost in houseplants
- How to use worm compost in potting mixes
Mulching and Amending Soil.
To mulch with worm compost, apply a one-inch layer to the soil around plants. Be
sure the worm compost is not piled against plant stems. To amend soil, worm
compost can be spread one-half to two inches thick over garden soil and mixed in
before planting, or mixed into the bottom of seeding trenches or transplanting
holes.
- Houseplants: Sprinkle worm compost around the base of plants to fertilize.
Each time you water, plant nutrients will seep into the soil.
- Potting Mixes: For healthy seedlings, mix one part worm compost with three
parts potting mix or three parts sand and soil combined. Peat moss, pearlite,
and worm castings are also good ingredients to add.
Symptoms
- If your worms are dying
- If your bin smells rotten and/or attracts flies
Worms Dying.
If your worms are dying there could be several causes. It may be that they are
not getting enough food, which means you should bury food into the bedding. They
may be too dry, in which case you should moisten the box until it is slightly
damp. They may be too wet, in which case you should add bedding. The worms may
be too hot, in which case you should put the bin in the shade. Or, it could be
the case that the bedding is eaten, and it is time to add fresh bedding.
Bin Smells. If your bin smells rotten and/or attracts flies, there may be
three causes. First, it may be that there is not enough air circulation. In this
case, add dry bedding under and over the worms, and do not feed them for two
weeks. Second, there may be non-compostables present such as meat, pet feces, or
greasy food. These should be removed. Third, there may be exposed food in the
bin. In this case, secure the lid, cover food scraps with bedding, and cover
worms and bedding with a sheet of plastic.
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